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Canadian Rockies by Rail
Journal: July 28 - August 6, 2008

Journal and Photos by Dan Skinner, President of Texas Public Radio

Monday, July 28th: Travel to Vancouver

It was my pleasure to accompany a group of 12 Texas Public Radio listeners on this Canadian Rockies Tour. For most of the TPR travelers the morning began very early, with a 4:30 a.m. arrival at the airport to catch a 5:50 a.m. flight out of San Antonio. The rest of our group flew out a couple of hours later. After clearing Canadian Customs in the early afternoon at the Vancouver, British Columbia Airport, the twelve of us met up again as we connected with our tour guide, David Lyle.

Airport
The Vancouver Airport greets visitors at the international arrivals terminal with a display about the nature and culture of the "First Nations," the collective term used to describe the native peoples of Canada.

Airport
The "First Nations" theme is continued into the Customs receiving area.

More information about First Nations is available at www.firstnations.de/index.html

Our luggage was loaded onto our chartered bus and we headed to the Renaissance Harbourside Vancouver Hotel to settle in. The rest of the afternoon and evening was free for us to explore the city on our own. We will spend three nights at this hotel, which is located next to Coal Harbour. It will serve as our home base as we explore the area.

Harbor
Views of Coal Harbor from Hotel
This view includes an Sea-Plane Dock
Dock
A Closer View of Sea-Plane Dock

Harbor
Coal Harbor Marina

Cityscape
Cityscape Near Hotel

Tuesday, July 29th: Tour Vancouver

This morning we woke to rain which continued throughout most of the day. This morning we woke to rain which continued throughout most of the day. However, we did not let the "liquid sunshine" dampen our spirits. Traveling out and back to the hotel we drove through Stanley Park, a one thousand acre heavily wooded park surrounding the harbour and made a couple of stops. We saw the First Nations totem display and also took in the view from The Prospect Point Lookout. (More info about Stanley Park at vancouver.ca/parks/parks/stanley/index.htm)

Totems
First Nations Totem Display in Stanley Park.
The Totems have been described as the native peoples "coat of arms." They tell stories of real or mythical events. Totem poles are found on the Northwest Coast of British Columbia and also in Lower Alaska. These totems were made from Western Red Cedar.

Totem
This is a replica of the Thunderbird House post which was originally created in the early 1900's. The house post also served the practical purpose of supporting roof beams while also making a cultural statement.

Seawall
A view of the seawall and Brockton Point
lighthouse in Stanley Park.

Lionsgate Bridge
A view of Lions Gate Bridge as seen from
Prospect Point Lookout in Stanley Park.

This morning we had breakfast at the Capilano Suspension Bridge and Rainforest Park. As we dined and visited with our traveling companions we were surrounded by the beauty of the tall trees and surrounding mountains. After breakfast we explored the park. The Suspension Bridge is not for the faint hearted. Suspended 230 feet above the valley, the 450 foot span sways sufficiently to make keeping your balance a challenge, and some walkers had to cling to the rails as they slowly make their way across. I loved it, but some visitors were clearly struggling to overcome their fear of heights. (More information about Capilano at www.capbridge.com/index.html)

Guide
Our guide, dressed in period costume, provided information about the suspension bridge and park before our travelers braved the crossing.

Suspension Bridge
Capilano Suspension Bridge
230 feet High - 450 Long
Individuals who crossed the bridge where awarded "I Made It" Certificates granting them "bragging rights" for their bravery!


A series of walkways suspended between the massive Douglas Fir trees in the rainforest section of the park, comprise the "Treetops Adventure" attraction. The suspension system on the trees is specially designed to not harm to the trees. The rainforest area of the park serves to both entertain and educate visitors about the importance of the trees to the environment and the local wildlife. It only seemed fitting that we had to contend with rain in the rainforest.

(The system of walk ways between the trees reminded me of the Ewok village in the Star Wars Movie.)

Tree Tops
The "Treetop Adventure" Walkways.

After we left the Capilano Suspension Bridge and Rain Forest Park we began our bus tour of Vancouver. Our tour guide, David Lyle, provided a running commentary of history as we traveled through Chinatown, one of North America’s largest, and the waterfront area and continued through Gastown, Vancouver’s turn-of-the-century pedestrian mall filled with pubs, restaurants, art galleries, specialty stores, and the world-famous steam-powered clock. We returned to the hotel just before noon and the rest of the afternoon was free to explore the city on our own.

In the evening, we had a group dinner at Steam Works Brewing Company in the Gastown section of Vancouver. Historic Gastown was created the same year that Canada became a nation.The restaurant is just around the corner from Gastown's famous Steam Powered clock. The clock's movements are steam drive and it plays Westminster Chimes on steam whistles located on the top. Learn more about Gastown at: www.gastown.org/history/index.html

Steam Clock
Gastown's Famous Steam Powered Clock

GasTown
A portion of Gastown. Before there was a Vancouver, there was Gastown. Founded in 1867, it was named after one of the first settlers, a tavern owner nicknamed "Gassy Jack" Deighton. In the early 1900's Gastown was the commercial center of Vancouver. Today it remains an historic shopping district and tourist attraction.

Wednesday, July 30th: Vancouver - Victoria - Vancouver

Early this morning we took scenic ferry to Vancouver Island and spent a couple of hours in Victoria, of the "City of Gardens." next to the sea.  This gave us time to have lunch, browse through the shops and enjoy the scenery. Victoria is home to The British Columbia Parliament Buildings, the first of which was built in 1898. The Embassy Hotel, dating back to 1904 is also an impressive landmark building. Learn more about Victoria, British Columbia at /www.victoria.ca/common/index.shtml

Parliament
British Columbia Parliament Buildings
Empress
The Empress Hotel

Next, we traveled to the lovely Butchart Gardens. The Butchart family owned a cement factory, and after the quarry was worked out the owner's wife turned it into a botanical garden. It is now preserved as a national historic site. Butchart Gardens are considered to be among the world’s most beautiful and contain an amazing collection of plants that display an explosion of color and fragrances. Approximately 400 gardeners are employed to keep the gardens in splendid condition. The sky was threatening earlier in the day, but the weather cooperated to provide us with a wonderful visit to the Gardens. Learn more about Butchart Gardens at www.butchartgardens.com

Sunken Garden Flower

Pickett and Day
Mike Pickett and Shanti Day

Talpeys
Charles and Carol Talpey enjoy a treat at the Gardens
Flower Fountain

As we returned to Vancouver Island on the ferry, there were whale sightings. Some people reported a fairly close sighting, but I only managed to view a couple of top fins as they surfaced briefly and also saw a few sprays of water in the distance as the whales spouted. However, it was still exciting to know that the whales were nearby. The route taken by the ferry service was very scenic and the time passed quickly as we returned to Vancouver in the evening.

Ferry
The Sister Ship of our Ferry

Tomorrow we leave Vancouver, so that meant that we had to prepare for an early departure in the morning. I have had the privilege of visiting the city before and I was impressed with the cities continued growth. Vancouver will be hosting the Winter Olympics in 2010 and much construction is going on the city to prepare for the event. One could easily spend much more time here because there is so much to see and do. However, I'm looking forward to the next two days on the train.

Thursday, July 31st: Rocky Mountaineer® Train travel from Vancouver to Kamloops

This morning we placed our bags outside our doors at 6 a.m. so that they can be loaded for transport. Our bus left the hotel at 7 a.m. and we headed to the Rocky Mountaineer Train Station. There are two types of cars on the train. The Red Leaf Service is a single level train car, and the Gold Leave service features a B-Level Dome Coach with dining space on the first level and a domed glass second level providing spectacular views of the scenery. Our views included coastal forests, roaring river canyons, and mountain peaks. The rail line follows the Fraser River most of the day, then switch to following along the Thompson River. We ended the day with a view of Kamloops Lake before arriving in the city for an over night stay. Here a just a few of the many pictures I took during today's journey... (More about Kamloops at /www.venturekamloops.com/Pages/kamloops.htm

Train Departs
All Aboard!

Hells Gate
"Hell's Gate" where the water rushes dangerously
between the narrowing in the river.

Tunnel
The train approaches one of the
many tunnels along the route.

Dining on the Train
Irene Begg, Celeste Carpenter and Josephine Cormack enjoy lunch together on the train.

Bridge
Cisco Crossings, where the Canadian Pacific Railroad and the Canadian National Railroad
cross the Fraser River.
Horse & Rider
One of the three horseback riders who greeted
our train upon arrive to Kamloops.

Friday, August 1st : Rocky Mountaineer® Train travel from Kamloops to Jasper, Alberta

After spending the night in Kamloops, we boarded our bus at 8:00 a.m. and headed to the train station to continue our journey to Jasper. There was a light rain during much of the day, but since we were on the train, our travelers were able to enjoy the scenery without concern for the moisture. Among other sites, we passed the mountain peaks of the Monashee Mountains and saw Pyramid Falls cascading down Mt. Cheadle. Occasionally along the way, we had to pull over to a side track to give right of way to one of the Money Trains. Money trains are cargo trains on deadline and they lose money via fines if they are delayed.

As we neared our destination, we saw the glaciers of the Albreda Icefields and tried to view Mt. Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. The top of Mount Robson is only visible about 10 days out of the year, and today was not one of them.

Train in Trees
Today we traveled into heavily wooded areas in the heart of the timber industry.
Pyramid Falls
Pyramid Falls on Mount Cheadle
Lake
One of many small lakes surrounded by woods that we viewed during our railroad trip today.
Mt. Robson
Mount Robson, the highest mountain peak in Canada, is shrouded in clouds as usual. The white patch seen in approximately the middle of the photo is a glacier.
RR Crew
The Railroad crew waved to the passengers then resumed working after our train passed by.
Arrival In Jasper
Our two day rail journey concludes
with our arrival in Jasper, Alberta

The attendants on the train told us that the area is home to moose, mountain goats, bear and caribou, and advised us to shout out wildlife sightings to the other passengers. To the delight of the passengers we saw a black bear and two cubs along the road about a half hour out of Jasper. However, the encounter was too brief for me to capture on camera.  

Early in the evening we arrived in Jasper, the northern gateway to the Icefields Parkway. From the Railway station we were took a quick bus tour around Jasper then we were taken to the Sawridge Hotel. This hotel has great views of the mountains and is in easy walking distance from downtown Jasper. Folks walked into Jasper to browse the shops and have dinner before returning to the hotel. Below are various views of the mountains that surround Jasper. More information about Jasper is available at www.jasper.ca

Jasper Mountain Jasper
Jasper, Alberta Jasper, Alberta

Saturday, August 2nd: Jasper

We started our day with a visit to Maligne Canyon.  Later, we traveled to the Maligne Lake, the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies where many of the travelers took a cruise of the lake that included a stop at Spirit Island. The cruise also afforded us spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers. On the way back to Jasper we also stopped to take in the view at Medicine Lake. The native tribes believed this lake had special healing powers.

Maligne Canyon
Maligne Canyon
Over time, the stream of glacier water seen in the bottom of this picture, has created the Maligne Canyon. The picture of the falls, on the right, was taken down stream from here.
Maligne Canyon Falls
Maligne Canyon Falls
Maligne Mountains
Lake Maligne
Spirit Island
Spirit Island at Lake Maligne
Swans
Carolyn and Mark Swan at Spirit Island

Medicine Lake
Medicine Lake


After returning to Jasper for lunch, part of the group opted to go on a rafting adventure down the Athabasca River. The raft trip featured great views from the river, a couple of brief light rain showers and mild rapids that left us soaked.

Rafting Trip
Our rafting party donned life jackets and some also wore fashionable yellow plastic ponchos to help protect them from water.

Loading Raft
Each raft holds a couple dozen people each along with a guide to navigate down the river.
Rafting
Although still dry in this picture, the rafters would soon
be splashed by the rapids yet to be experienced....
View from Raft
A Mountain View from Raft

The travelers who didn't go on the Jasper Rafting Tour enjoyed free time in the city. We had dinner together in the evening in small groups.

Sunday, August 3rd: Jasper to Lake Louise via the Icefields Parkway

This morning we left Jasper and made our way to Lake Louise. As we left Jasper a group of elk wandered out of the forest and across the intersection in front of us.The cars and buses patiently waited as the elk leisurely crossed the road. It made for an interesting start to the day.

One of the highlights of our journey was traveling along Icefields Parkway through Jasper and Banff National Parks. The parkway is lined with rushing rivers, glacial peaks, imposing cliffs and snowcapped mountain ranges.

Elk Crossing
Elk Crossing in Jasper
Mountain
One of many mountain views along the Icefields Parkway

We visited the Columbia Icefields Center and rode in Ice Explorers to the Athabasca Glacier, which is over 1,000 feet thick. This outlet valley glacier is only 2% of the total Columbia Icefield which is the largest accumulation of ice south of the Arctic Circle. Water drainage from the Columbia Icefield drainage goes to the Pacific, Arctic and Atlantic Oceans. The Ice Explorer Vehicles were custom built for the Brewster Company to use to transport visitors. More information about the icefield is at www.columbiaicefield.ca

Ice Explorer
The Ice Explorer that took us to the Athabasca Glacier.
Icefield
Visiting the Athabasca Glacier at Columbia Icefields.
Bagbys
Left to Right: Our Collette Tour Guide David Lyle with Gail and Donald Bagby at Athabasca Glacier

Athabasca Glacier
Exploring the Athabasca Glacier with another glacier on the mountain in the background.

Following our visit to the Icefields we made a stop at Peyto Lake then we continued on to Lake Louise, and checked into the famous Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. We had time to explore the area around Lake Louise in front of the hotel and enjoy a nice meal in one of the several restaurants located in the Chateau.

Peyto Lake
Lake Peyto
Chateau Lake Louise
Chateau Lake Louise

Monday, August 4th : Lake Louise to Banff

This morning started out very early for a few of the "shutterbugs" on this trip. The hotel offers a pre-sunrise wake-up call for those who want to photograph the morning reflections in Lake Louise of Victoria Glacier as the sun rises. I was among those who rose at 5:55 a.m. and rushed out to the lake to take advantage of the opportunity. Unfortunately, the reflection didn't reach it's full glory until around 7:30 this morning, so some of the photographers gave up before and missed the shot because of the chilly early morning temperature. I hung in there and here is one of the pictures from this early morning photo shoot... Lake Louise
Moraine Lake
Moraine Lake

We left Chateau Lake Louise at 10 this morning and headed to Banff. We stopped to see Moraine Lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks.  The jagged Ten Peaks are distinctively saw-toothed make a dramatic backdrop to Moraine Lake.

Moraine Lake was created when a massive rock slide created a dam across a valley which then filled with glacier water. The glacier water contains finely ground particles of rock, know as "rock flower," which is too heavy to float on top but too light to sink, so it remains suspended just below the surface. This rock flower causes the light to reflect intense blues and greens giving the water a very bright color in direct sunlight.

We stopped in downtown Banff for lunch and the opportunity to stroll through the many shops of Banff. The city is nestled in the mountains with peaks vi sable above the city skyline.

Clock Building Banff
Downtown Banff
Downtown Banff
Downtown Banff

After lunch part of the travel group went to Sulphur Mountain and rode gondolas to the top. The gondolas four people and were made by a Swiss manufacturer. The ride to the top takes eight minutes. The mountain top visitors center, where the gondolas arrive houses restaurants, an observation deck, gift shops, etc. The mountain top offers a 360 degree view of the surrounding mountain ranges.

Sulphur Mountain Gondola
Sulphur Mountain Gondolas
Sulphur Mountain Gondola Building
Sulphur Mountain Visitor Center at top of Gondola System offers great views of surrounding mountains
View from Sulphur Mountain
A view from the top of Sulphur Mountain
Banff Springs Hotel
View of Banff Springs Hotel from Mountain Top. The Bow River is visible behind the hotel.

Following our adventure on Sulphur Mountain, we rode the gondolas back down to our waiting bus and made the short trip to the magnificent Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. The hotel opened in 1888 and became known as the “Castle in the Mountains.” We enjoyed a very nice dinner complete with a view of mountains in the Bow River Valley Restaurant. I walked around the hotel, enjoyed the scenic vistas and took some pictures before turning in for the day. Tomorrow we travel on to Calgary for the final day of our Canada tour.

Banff Springs Hotel
Front of Banff Springs Hotel at Dusk
Mountain View from Hotel
One of numerous mountain views from the hotel

Tuesday, August 5th : Banff to Calgary

This morning some of our tour group visited the Whyte Museum which was created to tell the story of the settling Banff. The museum also features two heritage homes that have been preserved for touring. The rest of the tour group had extra time to enjoy at the Banff Springs Hotel.

When we left the Banff Springs Hotel, we stopped for a brief visit at the Bow River Falls. We then went into Banff for some free time to explore the city's shops and have lunch before heading on down the road to Calgary.

Banff Springs Hotel
The Banff Springs Hotel
Bow River Falls
Bow River Falls
Bow River Banff
The Bow River at the edge of Banff

Just outside of Calgary we stopped at Canada Olympic Park. This was one of the sites for the Winter Olympics of 1988. The facility is still used for athletic training and still retains the ski jumps and luge run from the games. In the summer the ski jumps are used to carry off road bicyclists to the top of the hill for a wild ride back down.

Olympic Flags
Olympic Park display of flags from nations that participated in the games in 1988

Olympic Park
Ski Jumps at Olympic Park
More About 1988 Winter Olympics

The last stop on our Canadian tour is the cosmopolitan city of Calgary. We checked into the Westin Hotel and had a little time to relax before heading out for dinner. Tonight, we had a farewell dinner at a restaurant called M.T. Tuckers. The rustic decor of the restaurant pays tribute to the cowboy culture of Calgary.

Calgary Tower
The Calgary Tower opened in 1968 and at 636 feet it was at the time the tallest structure in the city. Over time, however, new skyscrapers in the city have eclipsed the tower.

Downtown Calgary
Calgary is a blend of big city and cowboy culture. It is famous for the annual "Calgary Stampede"

More about Calgary

Wednesday, August 6th : Today We Travel Back to San Antonio

It's been a wonderful trip. We've seen wonders of nature, experienced new cities, and learned about Canada's history and diverse culture. Along the way we've also made new friends. I've enjoyed meeting and getting to know our group of TPR Travelers, plus the other folks who shared the tour bus with us. I hope that each of the travelers enjoyed the journey as much as I did. Thanks to my fellow travelers, and our guide David Lyle, for making the journey a joyful experience. Happy travels!


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